So me an me grand-daughter Jasmin flew to Paris and we wuz met at the airport by my cousin Maria-Claudia, daughter of my tío César, and I'd only bin to Paris once befo', in about I think 1991, wid me then-girlfren Jane, wot had the 'ump more often that not,
so, so glad I did not end up marrying her... but we had our share of fun for a little while. It's coz of Jane I can boast of 'avin kisst a girl by the River Seine ( whilst a femme gendarme watched on, unimpressed ) Ya gotta kiss a gel down by the river at
some point in yer lifetime. It's de rigueur.
"'Avin' the 'ump" is cockney for being pissed off. Don't quite remember WHY she seemed to be pissed off so often. Even the time we went to Barcelona and its environs she'd suddenly get in a bad mood...there we were, holidaying at the beach in Blanes, and
out-the-blue, BAM! bad mood and bad vibes galore... I remember leaving her in the room of the hotel so she could sulk to her heart's content while I had a peaceful drink by myself. Also I needed to get outta there because something or someONE was making a
hellacious racket out in the corridor.
Turned out it was the daughter of the hotel owner. A fetching little butch lesbo bitch, elfin and gamine ( I love these two adjectives. I'm-a try to work 'em in again soon... ) with short dark hair, jeans and t-shirt, and a leather pouch on her waist, like
carpenters wear. She was drilling with a Black and Decker on the wall outside our room just to be obstreperous, doing somethin to the light switch, I think because she intuited Jane and I had bin havin a bit of a 'ow's yer father; a lil' horizontal
recreation, as they say. Although what business of hers it was escapes me. She said to me, when she found me some few minutes later in the near-empty hotel bar: "Eres cachondo, Mexicano", which a loose translation of might be "you're a horny bastard, Mexican".
But 25 years laters, my cousin Maria-Claudia picked us up at Charles de Gaulle Airport on a sunny and warm late September Sunday afternoon, and took us to her abode near Pere Lachaise Cemetery. Jasmin my grand-daughter was on her best behavior throughout
our two-day stay, I'm happy to say. Jasmin is 25% sweet, 25% indifferent/lethargic, and 50% terrible... but more on this later. Maria-Claudia lives with her boyfriend Alexis, ( it's his place, actually, as I was to find out ) a polite, well-mannered Parisian
building contractor. He buys and remodels run-down dwellings and lives in them meanwhile he sells them. When we were introduced he asked me if I liked Paris, like it was important I did. Of course I said 'yes'. And I do.
Their apartment is in an old building with an inner courtyard the neighbours all share, to hang their washing, and to sit at the picnic table therein to chat and gossip. I saw two Chinese ladies doing just that. Another neighbor is a ceramicist who invited
us in to view his work in progress of a female kneeling in front of a man, with her head in his lap performing you-know-what. I had to re-direct Jasmin out the door and have her wait at the picnic table, meanwhile we politely viewed the artiste's, er, they
weren't really sculptures, more clay miniatures and figurines. This guy is pals with a homeless intellectual who sleeps on a mattress in a shop doorway around the corner on Chemin Vert, a busy commercial street leading to the Pere Lachaise Metro. See the
guy in the picture, a small figure in the distance coming down the sidewalk? that's him.
Jas saw this destitute erudite pissing into a bottle in the courtyard and went YEEEUUUUCH!, but in France they piss in the street, or they used to, so the guy was actually behaving normally, whatever his other idiosyncrasies.
So we got in from the airport and immediately Maria-Claudia escorted us to the Metro and showed us how to buy tickets and then split cos she had to be somewhere else. She said we should go to Rue de Rivoli if we wanted to exchange currency which we did,
but it was getting on towards evening, and as we walked and we walked and we walked past the arches with the tourist curio shops, we realized all the bureux de change were shut. But we did come upon La Samaritaine, the venerable ancient department store, now
closed and being converted into a luxury hotel ( "as if we needed more of those", said Maria-C, a staunch Socialist like her dad ) When we got tired of walking, we got back on the Metro and went to the Eiffel Tower.
We mingled with crowds of tourists as evening drew in and turned on the lights. Africans selling their art and artifacts on the pavement. The aroma of dark tobacco wafting. I was being careful not to lose Jasmin in the jostle and bustle. The Tower had barriers
underneath, people queuing for tickets, and military with machine guns patrolling in their red berets and green-and-brown cammos. Jas didn't want to go up anyway, so we went instead to an outdoor café opposite and had crepes, hers Nutella and strawberries,
and mine a savory one with cheese, not a million miles removed from a quesadilla.
There existed a tug-of-war 'twixt Jasmin and myself all about her phone being glued to her hand. As I don't possess a smartphone on principle, we were to rely on hers for communicatin' with Maria-C. But the confounded phone kept dyin' thru permanent usage.
I even had a spare charger in my pocket but of course Jas had to have it at the earliest, and when we were coming back from the Eiffel, the phone went dead at the crucial moment when Maria-C was about to tell us how to walk from an alternate Metro stop to
her place because we'd taken the wrong Metro line. I asked Jas WHY was it she hadda have her damn phone on all the time, and she said because otherwise she'd get bored.
I don't speak French. I've always had this hang-up about it being the most pretentious, conceited, snobbish, highfalutin, fuckin pompous, YEEEUUUUUCH! language. Particularly when spoken by the non-French. The French themselves can be excused, as they got
no choice. I always associate speaking in French with the petty bushwhacks in Mexico City. Everything in "good taste" in Mex City is Parisian-influenced, from when the Frenchies conquered our country, the days of Emperor Maximilian and his crazy wife Carlotta
and that. In fact I often felt I was in Mex City, walking around Paris... I envisioned some paunchy shirt-and-tied Mexico Citizen coming on all petty bushwhack goin' mais oui, monsieur. Tres chic. Oh la la.
I was accused recently by an ex-girlfriend of being a Surrealist. Or perhumps a surrealist, no capital c, only because I've been known to harp and waffle about Luis Buñuel's devastating critique of the French petty bushwhack in his 1970s movies. I watched
"That Obscure Object of Desire", and "The Discreet Charm of The Bushwhack" when a teenager, and was greatly influenced. So whenever I come across somebody putting on French airs and graces they make me wanna puke.
But French is widely spoken in Paris. I had some difficulty at the Tabac when trying to buy
Gauloises Brunes. The lady behind the counter kept pushing Gauloises Blondes
at me. Non, non! BRUNES! BRUNES! Oh fuckin 'ell...
I suspect my cousin's sanity is frail at the best of times, she's always going to the psychologist, and it happened that three days before we were to arrive, she found that her Sri-Lankan next-door neighbor had hung himself in the stairs! she screamed bloody
murder, and other neighbors came and took him down and called the ambulance. The guy didn't die, but it nearly sent poor Maria-C over the edge. So MORE psychologist, and less time to spend with us. Kept us waiting 3 and 1/2 hours around Notre Dame while she
went to her session because she absent-mindedly took the wrong train coming back and didn't realize it until she started seeing onion fields out the window...
That night us four repaired to the Brasserie on the corner and dined on fresh oysters, salad and white wine. Well Maria-C, Alexis and I did. Jas had a chicken burger and fries. I drank most of the two carafes of wine, tell the truth. The next morning I got
up tried to take a shower but couldn't turn on the tap, so dressed in the clothes I'd been wearin' and went out while everybody still slept tho' it was already ten a.m. I wanted to buy a belt with a boar's head buckle I'd seen in the window of a sporting and
hunting goods store. Ended up not buying it when I found out it was plastic, made in China, and cost 32 Euros.
Before you start thinking I'm quite the debonair boulevardier Bryan Ferry style, let me remind you that B.F might well be the messenger of your doom and your destruction ( how you doin' there, E. Ros, allright? ) and that I aint sofisticated. I'm just Miguel
from Tijuana who likes to smoke tequila and drink marijuana, and in that capacity I will finish with a quaint commercial break, but no:
I was forgetting about Montmartre. The previous time I was in Paris, somehow I neglected to visit Montmartre; the venerable ancient once-upon-a-time enclave of impecunious urdists like Modigliani, and TooLoose Latrec, and them lot. Being a conceptual urdist
myself ( at least in my head ) I wanted to breathe the same air, even though nowadays Montmartre is the last refuge of impecunious caricaturists who will chase you down the street trying to convince you to let them draw your portrait. But there still is something
captivating about Montmartre, some atmosphere quaint and picturesque. We sat at a café and had lunch, and walked, and looked down upon The City of Light. At least Maria-C and I did. Jasmin looked down upon her cellphone. And then we walked back down to the
Metro and fucked off.
When I woke up the next morning back in my daughter's house in Manchester, both she an Jas had gone to their respective occupations and it looked rainy out the window, and I had the Paris Blues so bad I put a drop of Scotch in my coffee and went back to
sleep